The 2003 Barolo is a terrific effort and once again demonstrates the advantage of blending fruit from various sources, especially in challenging vintages. Initially reticent, the wine gradually opens to reveal gorgeous notes of smoke, tar, roses and scorched earth on a linear, classically-built frame. This pure, sweet Barolo offers outstanding balance, well-integrated tannins and an engaging personality. Given the price differential with the Ornato, the savvy consumer will want to pay close attention to the estate’s Barolo normale in 2003. It is a superb effort, yet is likely to fly under the radar screen. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2023. Pio Cesare is one of the region’s historic estates. The winery’s base Barolo and Barbarescos are made in a fairly traditional style while single-vineyard wines are decidedly more contemporary expressions. In the challenging 2003 vintage, the former, which are multi-commune blends, have turned out particularly well.Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

A pleasant user friendly version of Barolo, it is a prime example of the richness and come hither personality of the 2003 vintage. Already fairly mature, it is soft with ripe fruit and smoky aromas, relatively low acidity, and a short medium finish. ——M.G.(12/22/2011)—— 87