The 2006 Barolo offers up a super-classic profile of tar, roses, raspberries and licorice, all wrapped around a firm core of tannins. Fresh and vibrant throughout, the Barolo impresses for its superb balance and poise. Deceptively medium in body, the wine sneaks up on the mid-palate, gaining more and more volume through to the finish. There is the subtlest hint of French oak that points to the slightly updated style the estate is going for with this bottling, but not enough to detract from the classic feel. This is a magnificent, impeccable Barolo from Pio Cesare, but it will be even better in a few years. The estate’s Barolo is made from a number of vineyards in Serralunga, Grinzane Cavour, La Morra, Novello and other villages. The wine is aged mostly in cask, although 30% sees French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Inc., Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Sweet and spicy, displaying a viscous texture that envelops the cherry, menthol and allspice notes. Firm, upright tannins on the finish keep this honest, and the spice lingers, along with notes of mineral. Needs time. Best from 2013 through 2030. 2,630 cases imported. -BS

Here is a classic expression of Barolo from a very good vintage that opens with bright fruit aromas that are embellished by carefully measured oak tones. You’ll recognize blackberry, cassis, tobacco, mineral, cola and humus. The tannins are young and this wine requires more years of bottle aging. ——M.L.(12/1/2010)—— 92