The estate's 2004 Barolo is very elegant in this vintage. Although the wine is firm and quite primary, the tannins are sweet, silky and refined. Today the wine reveals just a glimpse of its potential but it should develop into a gem with time. While most of the attention at Pio Cesare goes to the Barolo Ornato, this is the hidden beauty in this lineup. This Barolo is a multi-commune blend. Most of the fruit (60%) comes from the less well-exposed portions of the family’s Ornato vineyard, while the rest of the fruit is sourced from plots in La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga, Novello and Grinzane Cavour. The wine was aged in French oak casks (70%) and smaller French oak barrels (30%). This wine offers an incredible level of quality considering the production is 80,000 bottles. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Proprietor Pio Boffa has fashioned some of the finest wines of his career with his 2004 Barbarescos and Barolos. These 2004s are remarkably open even at this early stage. When I asked Boffa if he thought the 2004s would shut down in bottle Boffa responded that it was unlikely because the wines would have already begun to clamp down at this stage if they were indeed headed for a stubborn period. Boffa continued to say he had never seen a vintage with such quality and quantity, echoing a refrain heard throughout Piedmont when discussing the 2004 vintage. Like so many producers, Boffa has backed off the French oak, a move that has benefitted his wines to a huge degree.Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Extremely attractive aromas of blackberry, fresh mushroom and mahogany. Full-bodied, with lovely fruit, soft tannins and a long finish. Chewy, yet balanced and pretty. Builds on the palate. A big and juicy red. Best after 2010. 7,000 cases made. -JS

Here’s a beautifully crafted, oak-driven wine that needs at least four or five more years of cellar aging before it reaches true harmony and balance. The wine’s aromas are focused on Indian spice, vanilla, toasted nut and plush blackberry. It tastes bright and fresh but has the natural complexity to promise great things to come.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 93