The 2005 Shiraz “Gnarly Dudes” delivers notes of pepper, scorched earth, violets, blueberry, and blackberry. This leads to a full-bodied wine with excellent blue fruit flavors, bright acidity, but just a bit of narrowness on the mid-palate. The tannins are soft and well-integrated, the finish long and pure. Drink this lip-smacking Shiraz over the next 6 years. Two Hands is a negociant operation run impeccably by Michael Twelftree. It reflects the best that can be sourced from all over South Australia. The packaging provides some serious design competition to Dan Philips’ Grateful Palate and R Wines portfolio.Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; www.twohandswines.com; Also tasted: 2007 Riesling “The Wolf” (82)

A pleasant, well-made Shiraz, featuring mixed berry fruit and just a modicum of spice. Slightly richer and deeper than Two Hands’ Bad Impersonator, but still not a heavyweight. Turns bright and crisp, with some raspberry flavors on the finish. Drink now.——J.C.(11/1/2007)—— 89