For a look at how the Voge wines age, Lionel Fraisse, the estate's general manager, poured me a taste of the 2006 Cornas Vieilles Fontaines. From a vintage that's largely drinking well in both the Northern and Southern Rh?ne, it shows meaty, developed notes, cigar box and vanilla shadings and cassis fruit. Medium to full-bodied and silky in texture, it finishes long and mouthwatering—a lovely wine to drink over the next several years.

Even more powerful and backward, with greater concentration of fruit, and less noticeable acidity, the 2006 Cornas Les Vieilles Fontaines is a formidably-endowed, brooding monster that demands 5-6 years of bottle age. It will keep for two decades. With the brilliant oenologist, Albert Mazoyers, in charge of winemaking for Alain Voge, who is now in quasi-retirement, these wines have gotten stronger and more consistent over recent vintages. Voge is fashioning the finest dry white of St.-Peray. In some vintages, Voge produces a luxury Cornas cuvee called Les Vieilles Fontaines, but that wine was not produced in 2007. Voge is now producing some attractive, consumer-friendly St.-Joseph.Importer: No known American importer

Mouthfilling, with briary grip carrying the cocoa, maduro tobacco, iron, plum sauce and fig paste notes. The long, muscular finish is kept lively by mouthwatering acidity. Best from 2010 through 2020. 275 cases made.??–JM??Region: France / Northern Rh?ne / Cornas Select to Add