The 2009 Syrah Eddie’s Patch Hoppe-Kelly Vineyard bursts onto the palate with an exciting array of dark red cherries, rose petals, spices, leather and licorice. The use of 33% whole clusters gives the wine a high-toned register in the bouquet that is especially appealing. Sweet, silky tannins frame the exceptional finish in this pliant, highly expressive Syrah. This is a fabulous showing. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees. Tel. (925) 254-8922; www.dumol.com

The 2009 Syrah Eddie’s Patch Hoppe-Kelly Vineyard bursts onto the palate with an exciting array of dark red cherries, rose petals, spices, leather and licorice. The use of 33% whole clusters gives the wine a high-toned register in the bouquet that is especially appealing. Sweet, silky tannins frame the exceptional finish in this pliant, highly expressive Syrah. This is a fabulous showing. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees.Tel. (925) 254-8922; www.dumol.com