The 2008 Sannio Falanghina offers lovely balance and gorgeous varietal definition in a soft, perfumed style. This easygoing, delicious white is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. This is an impressive set of entry-level wines from Mastroberardino, an estate that in recent years has begun to recapture some of its past glory. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Falanghina is a bright and tonic white wine and this expression from the Sannio appellation in southern Italy is no exception. The wine is driven by drying mineral tones as well as fresh aromas of apple and pear. ——M.L.(3/1/2011)—— 87