The 2011 Falanghina Sannio is a pretty aperitif-styled Campanian white laced with peaches, pears and flowers. This soft, perfumed white is best appreciated over the next year or so. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2014. Mastroberardino is another winery that seems to have found an extra gear or two over the last few years. The Taurasis remain the flagships, but readers should also pay close attention to the entry-level reds and the best whites in this range. All of the wines are deeply varietal, making Mastroberardino a perfect place to start learning about the great wines of Campania. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620