Proprietor Mia Klein’s Napa Cabernets include the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa, a dark ruby/plum-tinged effort revealing sweet aromas of pepper, an Old Bay-like spice (traditionally used for Maryland steamed crabs), and plenty of black cherry, currant, and mocha scents. Medium-bodied and spicy with an herbal edge, it will drink well for 5-7 years. Tel. (707) 258-8119; Fax (707) 258-8132

Napa Cab doesn’t get any richer than this. It really sets the New World standard, with almost dessert levels of blackberries, cassis, plums, cherries, chocolate, elaborate new oak, the works. Also in the modern style are the tannins, as ripe, soft and sweet as butter. But it’s probably not an ager, and will be problematic at food pairing. From Mia Klein, it’s more of a tasting wine.——S.H.(10/1/2007)—— 90