Readers may still be able to find some of Jeune's spectacular 1990 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Tradition, which has begun to display even more character than it did when first bottled. The deep ruby/purple color is followed by a big, spicy, herb, black-cherry, black-raspberry, peppery-scented nose, full body, and gobs of glycerin and richness, as well as moderate tannin in the finish. Approachable now, it should continue to age well for 15 years. Proprietor Paul Jeune made no Cuvee Tradition in 1992. That cuvee is made from 60-110 year old, low yielding vines and is designed to last for 10-20 years. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, New York, NY; Tel. (212) 249-6650