The opaque purple-colored 1998 Cote Rotie (100% Syrah, with a portion from the Vialliere vineyard) exhibits surprisingly sweet tannin. Rostaing destemmed about 50% of this cuvee, resulting in gorgeous levels of creamy black fruits, subtle smoke and toast, a voluptuous texture, and a forward, easy to drink and understand style. Concentrated, sensual, and velvety-textured, this lovely Cote Rotie will drink well upon release and over the following decade. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524

Deep and brooding with a nose of brush, Provencal herbs, olive and meat. Full without being heavy, it’s complex and structured, the palate packed with flavor, showing coffee, licorice, dry berry, olive and a decidedly horsey-leathery component. Finishes with a long espresso and pepper fade. Drink 2003–2010.——W.E.(11/1/2001)—— 90