Muscled up and powerful, with graham cracker aromas and deep, saturated black fruit. For a Southern Rhone red, this has all you could ask for. The palate is sweet, ripe and meaty, with oozing black plum and berries framed perfectly by simple yet tasty oak. And the finish is snappy and lively, yet tannic and rich. The full package, with size and stature. Editors’ Choice. ——M.S.(9/1/2003)—— 91