This ratchets up the intensity from Voge’s other Saint-Perays, bringing waves of toasty, mealy and citrusy aromas and flavors. It seems almost floral on the nose, yet is authoritatively weighty on the palate. It’s powerful, yet crisp, with a long, velvety-textured finish. Delicious now, but should hold well.——J.C.(9/1/2007)—— 93