The explosively perfumed, rich, multidimensional 2002 The Derelict Vineyard Grenache displays a dense ruby/purple-tinged color. This wine, which emerges from old head-pruned vineyards, possesses classic kirsch liqueur notes intermixed with licorice, smoke, spice, and earth. Medium to full-bodied, with a nicely layered mid-palate, loads of fruit, good glycerin, and a succulent finish, this is a delicious Australian red to drink over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Rob McDonald, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552

Though more expensive than d'Arenberg's The Custodian Grenache, I liked this one less. Brown sugar and maple syrup aromas dominate; the palate is mercifully not as sweet as the nose would suggest, showing mostly black plum and berry notes. Wooly tannins on the finish have staying power, but the feel on the palate is pretty straighforward. 500 cases produced.——D.T.(3/1/2005)—— 86