Representing the vintage’s top material from its site, the Catoir 2009 Haardter Herrenletten Riesling Spatlese trocken – like its 2008 predecessor, exhibiting vivacity and buoyancy even at 13% alcohol – smells of tangerine rind, oregano, and white peach, with suggestions of peat, musk and sweat adding an intriguingly animal dimension. Glossy yet lusciously juicy, this misses quite the fascination or mineral intricacy of the corresponding Burgergarten, but nevertheless finishes with impressive and delightful persistence. Expect it to perform well for at least 5-7 years. “Despite sporadic rain at harvest time,” notes Martin Franzen about the 2009 harvest, “cool weather kept botrytis completely at bay. Frankly,” he adds, “it was hard to make disappointing wine with raw materials of this caliber.” But it was also impossible to achieve nobly sweet results save from Rieslaner, with its notorious penchant for spontaneous desiccation even in the absence of botrytis. This is the first vintage, incidentally, for which this estate has claimed organic bona fides, and Franzen – even if predictably – claims to find additional depth in his wines thanks to that conversion. (Not that this estate has ever been anything but entirely circumspect in any use of herbicides or pesticides.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300