Lots of sweet spice and mocha-infused toast, but also plenty of black currant, fig, game, bacon and briar. Long, velvety, exotic finish drips with fruit, but has great underlying, iron-fisted grip. Combines tremendous power and finesse. Drink now through 2020. 200 cases made. -JM

From a steep plot above the hospital in Tournon, Guigal is trying to make a Saint-Joseph to rival its single-vineyard Cote-Roties. Heavily oaked, this is missing the perfume of the Lieu-Dit Saint-Joseph bottling. It’s supple and round from the time in barrel, and of obvious high quality. But for now the cedary, vanilla tones of the wood are dominant. If they integrate over time, this rating may prove conservative. Drink 2010–2020. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 88