Marked by scents of tar and black olives, cedar and clove, blackberries and cassis, the 2017 Saint-Joseph Vignes de l'Hospice is the most complex, structured and age worthy of the three Saint-Joseph cuvées. The puppy fat and jamminess that were present earlier in its élevage are largely gone, and while the wine is medium to full-bodied, it's also reserved and elegant, with shadings of crushed stone and fine-grained tannins defining the palate and lingering on the finish.