The limited production (10,000 bottles) cuvee of 2001 St.-Joseph Vignes des Hospices is fashioned from 50, 80, and 100-year old vineyards purchased from Grippat. Gorgeous aromas of cherry jam, truffles, pepper, and earth jump from the glass of this dense ruby/purple-tinged 2001. Rich and full-bodied, with good acidity, it should drink well for 10-12 years. Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

Lots of sweet vanilla and bacony smoke here, with richly layered coffee and chocolate notes followed by dark cherry and currant fruit. Impressive power and length. An ambitious, modern style, with toast dominating the finish now, but has the stuffing to eventually harmonize. Drink now through 2010. 300 cases made. -JM