The 2009 Lagrein bursts onto the palate with a rush of dark red fruit, licorice and smoke. There is a bit of unrestrained wildness to the Lagrein that gives the wine an air of excitement. There is no shortage of personality here. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620