In contrast (and almost as good), the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus ex Machina is an extroverted, open and insanely perfumed effort that boasts killer blackberry and kirsch-styled fruit to go with layers of spring flowers, exotic spice and graphite. As are all of these efforts, it’s full-bodied, deeply concentrated and textured on the palate, with masses of sweet tannin. It will be better in a couple years and evolve gracefully for two decades, but it’s hard to resist right now.

Still youthful smelling, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus Ex Machina offers floral, garrigue-like aromas, plus layers of ripe red cherries. It's full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with hints of blood orange and citrus zest on the long, velvety finish. It clearly still has a decade or more ahead of it.

Dense but velvety, with gorgeous ganache and espresso giving way to dark fig, hoisin sauce and warm currant confiture. Lots of well-embedded charcoal and tobacco add cut and length to the hefty but driven finish. Grenache and Mourvedre. Best from 2013 through 2024. 583 cases made. -JM

Blending 60% old vine Grenache and 40% Mourvedre created a beauty of a wine. It's incredibly rich, with decadent, lush, silky textures, waves of liquefied kirsch, velvet tannins and a mouth coating finish that does not quit. Yeah, it's young. But it's so good, it's hard not to want to pop a bottle.