Moving to the reds, I found them less inspiring than the whites, starting with the 2011 The Flower and the Bee Souson, which is produced with Souson, a deep-colored grape (but not a Tintorera, as you hear and read in many places), with lots of tannin and acidity, so a curious choice to make an entry-level, easy to drink wine. As with many of these Atlantic reds, it needs a bit of time and air to focus its aromas and flavors and get rid of the bottle reduction. The nose displays some licorice and tar, shoe polish and red fruit. The palate is high in acidity and tannin, intense, but a little difficult to drink right now. It might require some powerful food and for sure would benefit from some time in the bottle. Not an easy wine. Drink 2014-2016.
Coto de Gomariz is one of the leading wineries in Ribeiro. They are located in the small village of Gomariz, on the right bank of the Avia River, in the Leiro zone, one of the best quarters of the appellation. It all started in 1978 when Ricardo Carreiro, a local who had made his fortune in America, started replanting his first vineyard in the village. Since 2001 there has been a big generational change with a young team inclined to follow biodynamic practices, the theories of Japanese Masanobu Fukuoka and the cycles of the moon for work in the vineyards and the winery. They now own 28 hectares of vineyards, 24 of which are in Gomariz itself, and the rest in neighboring villages. The soils are mostly granite with some schist and a little clay. Eight of these hectares are planted with red grapes. The wines are made by Xose Lois Sebio, who is very active defending wines produced from slope vineyards and has some small parallel projects of his own. The total output is 140,000 bottles per year, with some very small cuvees. They have a wide range of wines, and a new label The Flower and the Bee, with a modern, informal image directed at younger consumers.
Importers: P.R. Grisley Co., West Salt Lake City, UT; tel. (801)706-2737; www.prgrisley.com; Terraneo Merchants, Lincolnwood, IL; tel. (312) 753-9134