The range of wines is set by vine age, so let’s start with the producer with younger vines, the 2013 Finca Resalso, which is 100% Tempranillo from a mixture of relatively new vineyards on clay, chalky and stony soils, which fermented in stainless steel vats with indigenous yeasts and aged in used oak barrels (from Malleolus) for four months before bottling. The nose reveals ripe fruit, currants and cassis, with freshness and spicy oak lurking in the background. Compared with its cousin the 2013 Hito from Cepa 2, it feels lush and ripe, marginally more tannic, but with good freshness and balanced acidity. 900,000 bottles produced. Drink now-2017.
Emilio Moro is a leading producer of modern, ripe, exuberant, showy and well-oaked Tempranillos from Ribera del Duero, which has had a big following among fans of that style. Having said that, I found the wines better balanced, with more judicious use of the oak compared with the ones produced five years ago. They work 200 hectares of vineyards that are vinified in their winery in Pesquera de Duero. All their vineyards are planted with the old Tempranillo vines planted with branches of the old vines they had in the Valderramiro and Resalso vineyards. They replace some 15 hectares every year to keep the old average age. The wines are more integrated and balanced and show less oak than in the past, while they are warmer and richer in style than the Cepa 21 wines they also produce. They are very happy with the 2011 harvest, Javier and Jose Moro told me they consider it even better for them than 2010. On the contrary, there will be no 2012 versions of Malleolus, or the single-vineyard bottling, as the year was too warm for their liking.
Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300