Heady heliotrope and honeysuckle on the nose of Loosen’s 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese follow on a ripely apply, caramel-touched, alluringly creamy and buoyant palate and a saliva-inducing, salt- and stone-tinged finish. This should keep well for the better part of a quarter century. “I want real Kabinetts,” says Ernst Loosen by way of explaining his early start on the 2009 harvest, “between 80 and 83 Oechsle, with crisp acidity, freshness, and the like; and you can’t wait around, especially when you have five, maybe seven days of Kabinett-picking to do and every day ripeness is rising. This year, we wanted to delineate even more sharply the difference between Kabinett and Spatlese, as well as a distinct difference between Spatlese and Auslese.” In practical terms, this meant among other things slightly reducing the levels of residual sugar in the Kabinetts (Loosen says that trend will continue incrementally); and reserving botrytis fruit solely for wines labeled “Auslese.” Eiswein from Lay, Treppchen, and Sonnenuhr; Eiswein and T.B.A. from Pralat; as well as a T.B.A. from Wurzgarten were all – according to cellarmaster Bernhard Schug – in various states of fermentation or preparation for bottling when I visited in September, so consequently I shall review those wines (or at least some subset thereof) at such time as I report on the 2010 vintage.Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

Really seductive up front, delivering baked apple and peach flavors accented by smoke and mineral notes. The long, creamy finish offers hints of citrus peel. Very lush and buoyant. Drink now.??–KM??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add

Loosen’s 2009 spatlese from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr is a lush, medium-bodied wine loaded with honey and peaches. It’s superripe and succulent, with a long, fruity finish. Try it with Szechuan dishes, which will buffer the sweetness of the wine while the wine tames some of the heat. ——J.C.(6/1/2011)—— 90