From contract fruit sufficient to fill only one barrel, the Marc Morey 2007 Chevalier-Montrachet features very ripe white peach and pear with fresh lemon and the perfume of heliotrope, rowan and buddleia. That sense of things floral segues effortlessly into a silken, rich palate with vanilla, nutmeg, and honey notes from new wood and sheer ripeness of fruit. This borrows a bit of the interactivity that reached vibratory intensity in the Pucelles and here seem like a light shimmering of minerals over the surface of a vast pool of ripe fruit. Bernard Mollard began picking September 3 and brought in his crop in short order, in the end chaptalizing no more than half a degree. His wines underwent malolactic conversion already by early Spring – typical at this domaine – and were bottled at one year. The estate’s acreage is supplemented by contracts on five parcels in which they officially act as negociant, but exercise considerable control. “I like the way 2007 respects the terroir,” comments Mollard. “You can well tell the difference from one site to another.” I don’t disagree in general, but a more obvious feature of his 2007 collection – and a very flattering one – is sheer forwardness of ripe fruit, which results in a very strong family resemblance. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083