The red wines include the outstanding 2004 Merlot Prestige, which was bottled after spending 24 months in 100% new French oak. There is plenty of bad Merlot in the marketplace, but consumers should remember that when it’s great, it’s very great (i.e., Bordeaux’s Petrus). Haan’s 2004 exhibits a dense purple color along with a sumptuous perfume of plums, coffee, mocha, chocolate, and berries. Full-bodied with well-integrated oak and plenty of length, it will drink well for a decade. AImporter: Ben Hammerschlag, Epicurean Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 923-1376

Merlot in the Barossa can be a tricky proposition, but this bottling successfully juxtaposes superripe, chocolate fudge notes with surprisingly tart acids. Hints of licorice, vanilla and black cherries impart complexity, while creamy tannins and crisp acids mark the finish. Drink now–2012.——J.C.(11/1/2007)—— 88