The most aromatically complex of the Le Cadeau offerings is the 2008 Pinot Noir Diversite with its alluring notes of sandalwood, Asian spices, incense, rose petal, black cherry, and black raspberry. Exceptionally ripe and sweet on the palate with densely packed, structured fruit, this savory, mouth-filling effort will reward 3-4 years of cellaring. Drink it from 2013 to 2023. Tom Mortimer has divided his Le Cadeau Vineyard into five parcels with each block produced by a different winemaker. Tel. (503) 625-2777; www.LeCadeauVineyard.com

Le Cadeau consistently scores well with their evocative and textural Pinots. In this excellent vintage there are layers of earth and spice, sweet sassafras and brambly fruit. It just sits really well in the mouth, not a blockbuster, but complex and lingering, with the sort of creamy finish that invites the next glass immediately.——P.G.(10/1/2010)—— 90