Le Cadeau’s 2011 Pinot Noir Diversite – named for the multiplicity of clonal material in this portion of the estate’s vineyard that’s vinified by Scott Shull of Raptor Ridge – was bottled already in September follow the vintage. This displays sappy sour cherry, red raspberry and tart red currant typical of its vintage, incorporating salinity that serves for welcome saliva-inducement as well as rose hip and lemon zest that enhance a sense of finishing invigoration. There is a palpable sense of suspended matter here from the wine’s lack of filtration and a hint of rusticity to its tannings, but its sustained finish is undeniably impressive and I suspect that it will prove fascinating to follow through at least 2020.
“We spent around $25,000 dollars extra on farming,” relates proprietor Tom Mortimer of the 2011 vintage, specifically due to “l(fā)arge clusters that necessitated us dropping to one cluster per shoot. And as soon as there was anything to cut off, we got rid of all the shoulders. And then – since we still had more than we wanted in these very cool conditions – we went in and did individual cluster surgery, taking off ears and tails. We farmed the heck out of the vineyards,” he concludes, Aand were then super-cautious with vinification and in choice of barrels (for eventual assemblage), bottling only very small volumes: 75-150 cases of our top-tier cuvees. (In addition to Mortimer’s further collaboration with Jim Sanders under the Aubichon label that serves as an outlet for lesser Le Cadeau barrels, the two also release wines under the name “Jolete” that involves fruit from both of those other projects. Notes on recent releases will be found in this report under the name of each label.) Given this incredibly rocky site’s high elevation, it’s perhaps unsurprising, once the exceptional circumstances of this vintage are granted, that picking here continued into the first week of November. For much more about this amazing vineyard high up on Parrett Mountain; its diverse blocks; and its vinification by multiple winemakers, please consult Issue 202. (The Cote Est and Rocheux bottlings are labeled “Oregon” but not “Willamette Valley” due to restrictions imposed by their being raised in California winemakers’ facilities.)
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