The single-vineyard 2004 Barbaresco Il Bricco is incredibly primary today. It bursts from the glass with tons of fruit and a generous, expansive personality buffered by firm, yet elegant tannins. The wine offers outstanding potential, yet it also requires cellaring before offering its finest drinking. The single-vineyard wines are meant to be more modern in style, but in 2004 Il Bricco isn't too different from the Barbaresco. The oak is especially well used in the 2004, and this is a very beautiful Barbaresco. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Proprietor Pio Boffa has fashioned some of the finest wines of his career with his 2004 Barbarescos and Barolos. These 2004s are remarkably open even at this early stage. When I asked Boffa if he thought the 2004s would shut down in bottle Boffa responded that it was unlikely because the wines would have already begun to clamp down at this stage if they were indeed headed for a stubborn period. Boffa continued to say he had never seen a vintage with such quality and quantity, echoing a refrain heard throughout Piedmont when discussing the 2004 vintage. Like so many producers, Boffa has backed off the French oak, a move that has benefitted his wines to a huge degree. Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

This is wonderfully floral and fruity on the nose. Full-bodied, with supersilky tannins and a long, long finish. Chewy yet polished. Plenty of ripe blackberry, light toasty oak and vanilla on the finish. Best after 2011. 700 cases made, 100 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barbaresco Select to Add

Il Bricco is a blockbuster wine with extraordinary intensity and impressive concentration. It’s a dark, spice-driven wine with oak aromas of vanilla, cinnamon and powdered spice backed by black currants, forest berry, pressed flowers, curry and turmeric. Austere and brooding, it’s the kind of wine you’ll want to pair with a heavy winter dish that can stand up to its thick, luscious mouthfeel.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 94