The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja bursts from the glass with layers of highly expressive fruit. It is a huge, explosive Barbaresco endowed with a sensual, mysterious personality that isn’t ready to show all of its cards just yet. Still the silkiness, richness and sheer intensity of the wine suggest it will drink beautifully for a number of years. It is a compelling, utterly harmonious wine of the highest level. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is an impressive set of wines from Cortese. It’s impossible not to admire these genuine, sincere wines and their equally unpretentious prices. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620