The 1997 Marion (a blend of 58% Shiraz and 42% Grenache) is made from 136-year old Shiraz vines planted within the Adelaide city limits. It is a full-bodied, velvety-textured, saturated purple-colored wine with extraordinary fruit richness. The question mark reflects concern with a pronounced aroma of fresh manure (or is it the Burgundy cheese called epoisse?) intermixed with the extravagant levels of blackberry liqueur-like fruit. Low in acidity, full-bodied, but funky, this massive, concentrated wine tips the scales at a realistic 14.3% alcohol. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. A Ted Schrauth Selection, Old Vines Australia, imported by Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA; tel. (408) 689-9080, and C. Daniele, New York, NY; tel. (212) 534-3421