The 2007 L’Apparita (Merlot) is another outstanding wine, but it is the least interesting of the estate’s high-end 2007s. The warm growing season doesn’t appear to have been as kind to the Merlot as it was to the other grapes grown on the property. Super ripe dark fruit, sweet French oak and chocolate emerge from this supple, round Apparita, with just enough minerality on the finish to provide a measure of balance. The wine’s persistence and length are first rate but a slight overripe quality lingers. The Merlot grown in these high-altitude vineyards has a way of developing immense nobility with bottle age, so it will be fascinating to see what happens here. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. Castello di Ama remains a reference-point producer in Tuscany. My visit to the property last year culminated with the stunning 1988 Apparita, still in great shape after all these years. The house style seeks a rich, bold expression of fruit that requires significant bottle aging to reach its apogee, even if the wines can be very showy when young. Make no mistake about it, these are some the most pedigreed wines being made anywhere. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461