The 1996 Hermitage Cuvee L'Hermite comes from five vineyards in 1996 - Le Meal, Les Rocoules, L'Hermite, Beaumes, and Les Diognieres. It is a medium to full-bodied, cassis-scented and flavored wine offering a classic yet rare combination of both power and elegance. Although it does not have the extraordinary density, weight, and power of the two 1995 cuvees, both of those wines put on significant weight and several layers of texture during their cask aging, and I would not be surprised to see this wine improve. Readers should note that the acidity in the 1996 is slightly more noticeable than in the 1995s. The 1996 L'Hermite requires 5-7 years of cellaring; it will age well for a minimum of two decades. As a postscript, readers should be aware that all the Tardieu-Laurent wines reviewed in this segment are very reasonably priced. A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42843822), various American importers