Potel’s 2005 Clos de la Roche smells sweetly of cherry liqueur, blond tobacco, honey and iris. If this were a white wine if would be a nobly sweet one. Explosively intense in the mouth, with sappy, sweet cherry, quarry dust, tobacco, pungent flowers, citrus zest, and gradually emerging hints of game, it finishes with almost indelible sweetness and complexity. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.