Chermette’s 2007 Beaujolais Vieilles Vignes Cuvee Traditionelle reflects more rigorously than his (likewise unfiltered) “Pierre Chermette” cuvee the selection of top-quality fruit and vinification without chaptalization or yeasting and with a minimum of added sulfur. Surprisingly dark in color for a wine so light in body (at 11.5% alcohol) this displays pure red berry and cassis fruit, sweet floral notes, citrus rind pungency, saline minerality, and a kinetic inner intensity that will leave your palate refreshed and invigorated. There is also a darker, woodsy undertone here, which will emerge interestingly as this Beaujolais – which currently acts the white wine want-to-be – matures. Enjoy letting this wine demonstrate to you its versatility over the coming 18-24 months. (The equally lovely 2006 should be snapped up if you find it and enjoyed over the coming year.) From his base in southern Beaujolais, Pierre Chermette (like nearby Jean-Paul Brun) has become one of the beacons of Beaujolais quality, as well as a landholder in the “crus” of northern Beaujolais. (Since his label now features his name writ large and “Vissoux” in tiny letters, I have listed accordingly.)Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800