The 2010 Chambertin is a model of buttoned-up restraint and class. With time layers of silky, perfumed fruit emerge from the glass. There is a seamless quality to the Chambertin that is quite striking. Currently, it isn’t as vibrant as the Latricieres, but it will be interesting to see what happens once the wine goes into bottle. For now the 2010 is playing its cards very close to the vest. David Croix used 30% whole clusters on the Chambertin. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040. Winemaker David Croix describes 2010 as being similar to 2002, but with more tension. The harvest started on September 23. About two-thirds of the wines were lightly chaptalized. None of these wines had been racked at the time of my visit in November 2011. Giroud fans will note the addition of two new Volnays to the lineup. I will report on the maison’s 2009s in the April issue. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640