Even better than the 2004 is the 2003 Rosso Piceno Vigna Piediprato. An equal part blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese aged 18 months in large French and Slovenian foudres, it boasts a big, sweet nose of black cherries, roasted herbs, meat, and damp earth. This attractive, spicy wine borders on being rustic, resulting in a fleshy, country Italian red with undeniable character as well as flavor depth.