This small- production wine showcases the wild, feral and lonely personality of this winery’s extreme coastal mountain location, offering the most exotic flavors that are hard to describe. Asian pears, pomegranates, Dr. Pepper cola, red currants, licorice, bacon and rare berries like mulberries and loganberries come to mind. It’s softly delicious and drinkable now, yet has a firm acidic structure that suggests aging into the future. It will be fascinating to watch this wine develop over the next decade.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 97