Their 2006 Chardonnay betrays the Limoux origins of its fruit and the stay experienced in barrel by a portion of it in an alkaline, wet stone note; hints of brown spice and toast; refreshing apple-y fruit acids; and a surprisingly leesy sense of stuffing. There is nothing exaggerated here, but unlike 99% of Chardonnays selling for remotely close to the price, there is also some genuine character. I’m sure money is being lost when fruit of this quality gets this treatment and ends up costing $11, but that is – as the trade jargon puts it – the “l(fā)ine price” for the Les Jamelles line. Enjoy this over the next 4-6 months. The Les Jamelles brand, with its distinctive tall bottles, has been around with commercial variations for many years, but since 1991 the common thread has been the winemaking team of Catherine and Laurent Delaunay – both with experience working in California as well – who source these varietally-labeled wines throughout the greater Languedoc, vinifying at the estates and subsequently blending and storing the wines in Nimes.Importer: Cellar Door Selections, Columbia, MD; tel. (410) 309-6061

Notes of cream, lemon and newly sawn wood open this full-bodied example from one of the brands that helped launch the popularity of Pays d’Oc varietal wines. The lush palate shows some lemon and pear notes with just a hint of mineral on the finish. Drink up.——W.E.(3/1/2009)—— 83