The “one star” 2004 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese * (A.P. #32) – which at the time I tasted it was still under consideration to be released as an Auslese – smells of baked apple, marzipan and white raisin. In the mouth, this wine is creamy and rich, though without the juiciness that lent some of the other best 2004s there particular infectiousness. Instead this wine creeps up on you and convinces you of its profundity in a long, polished finish that reprises baked apple and almond along with a glaze of honey, a lick of stone, and a delectably salty note. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Johannes Selbach chose to present next his 2004 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese, having given it an exceedingly hard act to follow. But this is a more forceful and forward wine, so perhaps it made sense. Fresh apple, vanilla, honey, sage, and notes of smoldering wood in the nose lead to a juicy, extroverted and invigorating palate and a long apple, vanilla, smoke, and wet stone finish. The counterpoint of vibrant acidity with incipient creaminess that characterizes so many of the best 2004s (and over the years, also so many of the best Selbach-Oster wines) is strikingly evident. This is, I suspect, largely a legacy of judicious retention and use of lees not to mention of fruit picked close to phenolic perfection. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

A laserlike style, full of lemon-lime flavors that remain focused. It's balanced toward the vibrant structure and just lacks the extra dimension on the finish today. I give it the benefit of the doubt, with a little time. Best from 2008 through 2020. 176 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Select to Add