This is one black, inky wine, but its blackberry and plum fruit is focused and concentrated, enveloped in a smooth, chalky bubble. Mocha and chalky tannins continue on the finish. Thick and rich, it’s a wee bit low acid, and is not for the faint of heart. A sizeable wine, more appropriate solo than with dinner. ——D.T.(5/1/2004)—— 88