The 2004 Pinot Noir “Aliette” spent 12 months in 60% new French oak. It has a fragrant, smoky nose with generous cherry and red currant aromas. On the palate the wine is supple-textured, elegant, and friendly. Drink it over the next 4 years. Over the past 15 years Willakenzie Estate (named for the soil type on which the winery sits) has been a consistently excellent source for Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and particularly, Pinot Noir. The quality has been solid and the prices have been fair. Tel. (503) 662-3280; www.willakenzie.com. Also tasted: 2006 Pinot Gris (88), 2006 Pinot Blanc (89)

The Aliette bottling is the prettiest of the entire flight from WillaKenzie. Softly scented with floral and spice, it is also from the oldest vines, planted in 1992. It’s an elegant wine that actually fits the claim to be Burgundian in style (does anyone in Oregon not claim to be Burgundian?). The finish is nicely nuanced with cinnamon, saffron and sandalwood.——P.G.(11/15/2007)—— 89