The outrageously tasty 2008 Chardonnay Ulises Valdez reveals caramelized tropical fruits such as oranges and pineapples intermixed with brioche, creme brulee and hazelnuts. Deep, rich and full-bodied, this authoritative Chardonnay is classically Californian with a nod to French structure and minerality. Consume it over the next 4-5 years. The irrepressible Paul Hobbs fashioned a beautiful portfolio of Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in both 2008 and 2009. His style of Chardonnay comes directly from the Burgundy handbook, meaning cool vineyard sites, full malolactic fermentations, lots of lees contact and the use of well-established clones, such as the old Wente and occasionally some of the newer Dijon clones. The 2009 Chardonnays are slightly more perfumed as well as lower in alcohol. Tel. (707) 824-9879; Fax (707) 824-5843

An awesome Chardonnay that gives everything you want in richness, yet frames it in a structural integrity rare in California. Dazzles with tropical fruit, green apple and pear flavors, with a brilliant overlay of oak that adds buttered toast and spice flavors, not to mention sturdy oak tannins. But it’s the zesty acidity, like a squirt of lime juice, that really elevates this wine.——S.H.(12/15/2010)—— 95