Drunk from magnum, the 1985 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is an extraordinary wine, unfurling in the glass with a multifaceted bouquet of toasted nuts, iodine, ripe but crisp yellow orchard fruit, pastry cream and honeycomb. On the palate, it's full-bodied, immensely layered and penetrating, with stunning minerally structure, searing concentration and an immensely long finish. Structured more like a red wine than a white, this is a brilliant wine from one of Domaine Ramonet's greatest vintages of the decade, and it has a long future ahead of it.