The 2014 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru offers up notes of citrus zest, pastry cream, subtle noisette and a framing of new oak—the prelude to a wine that is notably more tight knit and unyielding than the Bienvenues. There’s lots of power and cut here, but so much is currently held in reserve, and cellaring will be essential to realize its full potential. Interestingly, one parcel of the Ramonet's holdings in Batard-Montrachet adjoins their parcel of Bienvenues, but the other parcel is in the middle of the vineyard on the border of Chassagne and Puligny, and perhaps that explains why these grands crus are generally so different.