The 2008 Dolcetto d’Alba Pian Balbo is an attractive, mid-weight red laced with berries, licorice and spices. This traditionally-styled Dolcetto is more about aromatics and structure than density of fruit. The graceful, Burgundian Pian Balbo is sure to please readers who prefer a more restrained style of Dolcetto. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Here’s a subdued and understated Dolcetto that has been executed in a lighter, fruit-forward style with informal appeal and sour tannins on the close. You’ll recognize aromas of dark fruit, berries and fresh spice.——M.L.(9/1/2010)—— 86