The sensational 2005 Cote a Cote Proprietary Red (a 670-case blend of equal parts Mourvedre, Grenache, and Syrah) boasts an inky/ruby/purple hue in addition to a big, sweet bouquet of roasted meats, tar, camphor, creme de cassis, and smoke. The wine is rich, full-bodied, layered, and exceptionally well-balanced and intense. It should drink beautifully for 10-12+ years. Transplanted Frenchman, Stephan Asseo (from St.-Emilion), has found a home as well as some great terroirs in the limestone soils of Paso Robles (all his vineyards are situated on the western side of Highway 101). Asseo continues to go from strength to strength, producing a fabulous portfolio of wines that makes L-Aventure one of the bright, shining reference points for the region. This is one of the California Central Coast superstars, and the wines are worth every cent.Tel. (805) 227-1588; Fax (805) 227-6988

More rustic and masculine, the 2005 Cuvee Cote a Cote is equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Offering notions of blackcurrants, ground herbs, pepper, tar and licorice, this full-bodied effort has a full, concentrated mid-palate, ample tannin and a savory, expansive profile. Drinking beautifully and at the early stages of maturity, it should be consumed over the coming 10-12 years. Tel. (805) 227-1588; www.aventurewine.com

Rich, intense, powerful and concentrated, with dense blueberry, tar, loamy earth and spice, with a solid wall of tannins. Needs air and time. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Drink now through 2011. 800 cases made. -JL