The 2009 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Balciana is a bit more laid back than previous vintages. Sartarelli fans know the Balciana for its trademark exotic, lush personality, but sadly the wine found limited commercial acceptance, so the estate dialed back the late-harvest style. The 2009 has lovely textural polish and fabulous balance, but isn’t the standout it has been in the past. Scents of white peaches, flowers and mint linger on the finish. Call me nostalgic, but I much prefer previous vintages of the Balciana. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2017.
When the mood strikes for Verdicchio, Sartarelli is often one of my go-to houses. The wines are loaded with varietal character, while the different bottlings are usually nicely differentiated and articulated.
Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769
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