So rich and dramatically flavorful, it’s practically a new food group. Stuns with the power of its black cherry, blackberry jam, dark chocolate, coffee and toast flavors that unfold in waves on the palate and just go on and on. Fully dry, the wine represents a triumph of modern viticulture and enology. But it will take some artful cooking to come up with a dish to pair it with. ——S.H.(5/1/2006)—— 91