A wine I've had many times, Julien's 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure is a heavenly Chateauneuf du Pape that's a tribute to the heights Grenache can hit when grown in a great terroir and made by a great winemaker. Possessing about as much kirsch liqueur, blackberry, licorice, bouquet garni and spice as you could pack into a wine, this flamboyant, voluptuous and sexy beauty doesn't show any of the harsh tannin common in the vintage, has awesome purity and a blockbuster finish. When a wine is drinking this good, I see no reason to hold off, but I've no doubt it will hold nicely going forward.

One of the stars of the vintage is the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure, another magnificent example of old vine Grenache (all from 100-year-old Grenache vines planted in sandy soils). This profound wine boasts abundant amounts of sweet black cherry and floral characteristics interwoven with notions of crushed rocks and licorice. Full-bodied, opulent, and powerful, with good structure, an unbelievably sweet, expansive mid-palate, and a broad, savory finish, this is truly compelling Chateauneuf du Pape at its finest. It was completely aged in old oak foudres prior to bottling. It should last for 15-20 years. With over 30 acres of vines in Chateauneuf du Pape, this relatively new estate, run by Christian and Julien Barrot, has served notice that they are intent on making high quality wines. In ascending order of quality (to my way of thinking), their three cuvees include the Reserve, Fiancee, and the magnificent 100% old vine Grenache offering called Pure, which is about as close to a great vintage of Rayas as one will find (although Domaine Charvin is equally close in style).Importers: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (609) 608-9644 and Turner Wine Imports, Morrisville, NC; tel. (919) 463-7676

Dark musk and spice nose. Superb, ripe, succulent raspberry/chocolate and cherry fruits. Lovely balance, long, endless flavour.