Always showing well (which is a trait of the vintage), the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure is about as sexy as wine gets. Just layered with notions of sweet kirsch liqueur, raspberries, ground pepper, herbes de Provence and licorice, it's a wine I could see rating a few points higher if it wasn't in a retrospective lineup like this. Silky, seamless, full-bodied and perfectly balanced, with fine tannin and a blockbuster finish, drink it anytime over the coming 15 years.

A spectacular effort, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure comes from 100+-year-old vines planted in pure sand and was made from absurdly low yields. Its bouquet smells like a cocktail of framboise and strawberry liqueur. With wonderful “purity,” stunning opulence, a sumptuous mouthfeel, a full-bodied, layered finish and exquisite aroma and flavor intensity, this is one of the most profound examples of old vine 100% Grenache one will find anywhere in the world. Enjoy it over the next 15+ years. Young Julien Barrot’s three cuvees of bottled 2009s showed better this year than they did last year – always a fabulous sign. I tend to underrate these wines initially, only to add points after they spend time in the bottle. Barrot is one of the young turks that appears to no longer be “up and coming,” but has arrived. This 30-acre estate is spread throughout the appellation, and in most vintages, three cuvees are produced – Terroir, Signature and Pure, the limited production, remarkable, 100% Grenache cuvee made from century old vines planted in pure sandy soil from the lieu-dit known as Grand Pierre. The Terroir and Pure are aged in foudre and the Signature in foudre and steel tank. 2010 appears to be another great vintage for proprietor Julien Barrot.Importer: The Sorting Table, LLC, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724